Russia World Cup 2018: What to Know Before You Go!

Russia 2018 

What to Know Before You Go

Spanish Version

FAN ID volunteer on path to Krestovsky Stadium

If you are a soccer fan as I am, you follow your national team closely and watch as many games in person as possible.  Though the next two world cup venues are situated in countries which may give you second thoughts on whether to attend or not, this blog hopefully will help you better decide, and if you do go, make your trip more enjoyable and beneficial.

I visited Russia (and hopefully will get to Qatar for the proposed club championship) in the summer of 2017 for the Confederation's Cup and have prepared both this blog and a YouTube video to help you navigate through the maze of uncertainty and confusion.

Heading to Krestovsky Stadium, St. Pete

So let's cut to the chase. I've organized this blog into categories and hope you find what you're looking for. If not, feel free to add comments or questions below. I'm not an expert on Russia and only traveled there once, for the Confederation's Cup, but will do what I can to help. You may have heard how confusing and at times frustrating it is to travel around Russia, and it can be. But overall I'm sure you will return home with experiences you will treasure for a long time and maybe even get to see your team bring home the ultimate prize!

Spartak Stadium in Moscow

      NEW-  YouTube Version of this blog!!!

                                                                 

>>> Traveling to Russia?? Check out this list of things to pack!! <<<

Checklist for Travelers to the World Cup Russia 
There are a few things you need to do before you travel:
     *Notify your credit/debit card company beforehand where you are going and the dates, and be sure to confirm that your card is valid in Russia, since apparently some aren’t
    *Make digital and hard copies of important documents/credit and debit cards/passport, etc. in case they get lost or stolen

-         *It might be a good idea to resist the temptation of advising everyone you will be away (and avoid posting pics on FaceBook) since your house/apt may be susceptible to theft (I’ve heard a few stories of ppl going away, then coming back to a house which was looted).

     *Exchange $$ into rubbles if you’d like. Also, if bringing USD, be sure they are new and crisp, and apparently $100 bills are well received.

Packing List:

·        -The first, and perhaps the most important thing you’ll need to decide on, is what to pack everything in.  I purchased this Wheeled Backpack which was versatile and fit under my plane seat, and costs only about USD50.

·        -Not all hotels and hostels will have a safe, so it’s best to carry a lock to secure your baggage while you are out.

·        -It will most likely rain while there, so a light-weight rain jacket with hood is a necessity.

·        -You will need to bring some long sleeve shirts, as the night time temp can get below 10C, particularly in northern St. Petersburg.

·        -I like to walk around in flip flops when I’m relaxing, especially at the hotel. Plus hotel floors can be full of nasty germs.

·        -If you are coming from a country outside of Europe or Russia you most likely will need a plug adapter. This one has two inputs.

·        -A money belt is good to have to keep your passport, credit cards, money, and other valuables while walking around.

·        -It’s a good idea to have a mini backpack to use while trekking around. I got into the stadiums with this one.

·        -A cheap speaker to hook up to your phone is nice to have. Most hotels had WiFi and there wasn’t much on TV that was interesting, so I listened to news and music via my Iphone. Bring your earphones as well to use on planes and trains.

·        -You should definitely bring along a portable charger for your cell phone, which you’ll need when you’re on day long outings and may also come in handy on long train rides.

·        -I bought a pair of these slick convertible pants for this upcoming trip, which are super light and water proof.

·        -I also like to bring along extra wash clothes, bodywash, hand sanitizer, small plastic bags, a bar of laundry soap and aspirin/diarrhea pills.

·        -Finally, I purchased a SIM card from Telestial, but buy the data version as the one I had was voice/data and data was expensive.

 
It's all about the FAN-ID

Aurora Battleship - St. Petersburg

The FAN-ID is a perfect marriage of Russia's hyper-intense security apparatus and FIFA's unabashed and limitless greed (it's no coincidence this version of the World Cup is being played in Russia).

While fans were able to purchase and then exchange tickets to the 2014 World Cup in Brasil in an open market, this might be a little more difficult with the Russian games, as every fan will need to have a FAN ID to enter the venues, along with their game tickets, which will have their name printed on them (though you may be able to get through security with someone else's ticket, as we did in the video at the foot of this page).  And just as important, the FAN ID takes the place of a visa, so you can enter the country by simply showing your FAN ID at a foreign airport before departing and to immigration upon entering Russia, along with your passport.  You will need to apply for a FAN ID after purchasing your World Cup tickets, and the sooner the better!!  As this process is quite involved and essential, I'll place the steps below:

Display at Moscow Airport

 

Unless you are going with an authorized tourist agency you will need to purchase tickets on the official FIFA site. You will receive a confirmation number (and will get your game tickets sometime after 1 April 2018).  With this confirmation number, you can begin the process for the coveted FAN-ID!!  Don't put this off; it's a hassle but you need to get it done and out of the way.  The site for you to register is FAN-ID.  The most difficult part, for me at least, was getting a good photo: the one I uploaded was rejected at least 15 times!  The fields are also confusing to fill out- they seem more adapted to Russian applicants.  You will receive your FAN-ID by courier at some point hopefully before the first game.  It seems a little risky, especially for countries where mail services are precarious. Being that your FAN-ID also serves as a visa, you need to have it before you travel from countries which require a visa to enter Russia (in other words, you need your FAN-ID to get into Russia, but this will also save you USD150- the cost of a Russian visa- if you are a US citizen).  For countries with visa-free entry, you can pick up your FAN-ID in person when you arrive in Russia if you wish. Carry your FAN-ID with you the entire time you are in Russia (I kept mine in a money belt). This official link answers most of your questions: FAN-ID FAQ

TRANSPORTATION

Free metro ride on game day

With very few strings attached, transportation revolving around games you are attending is pretty much free (and hassle-free as well). For me, this meant getting from Moscow Sheremetyevo International Airport into town (I looked into a taxi and it was USD160 with drivers I encountered at the airport, though my friend Jacek reserved an English-speaking taxi service in advance for USD40, and had a very good experience, so this may be worth it.  The service is called "Lingo Taxi"). Just a quick note on Uber: it is available in Russia, but recently they reluctantly merged with a local ride-hailing company, Yandex. I did not use the service so can't give any input, but you obviously need a WiFi connection and at the airports in St. Pete and Moscow it was complicated to get a connection: I had to receive a text message with a code to enter. With the SIM card I acquired from Telestial, I was able to get a text message as my SIM had voice/text and they provided me with an international number (UK mobile number). So I think it would be too complicated to use Uber when you arrive in Moscow or St Pete airports if you don't have a data connection.

"AeroExpress" to downtown Moscow

If you do elect to get to your hotel for free (and maybe spend the money you save on a decent meal your first night like I did), go to the top floor at the Moscow airport to the "AeroExpress" counter.  You must show your FAN-ID and any game ticket for a MOSCOW match (there were some Mexican supporters with us who were not going to any Moscow games, so had to pay for the train ride, but it was only about 500Rubles- USD10). When you get to the last train stop, you will need to catch the metro.  This may be where you will first need assistance from a FAN-ID volunteer (they are multi-lingual and can be found at most metro and railway stations, as well as tourist sites.  The ones I encountered spoke English and Spanish).  

Maps, compasses and phone apps. Volunteers finding my hotel

They are eager to assist you, though some of the info they provided me was incorrect :(  Thus, it is also a good idea to always have a smart phone with Google Earth at your fingertips.  They also helped me to purchase a metro top up card, which I added funds to and used on non-match days. I suggest you do this also. However, on game days just present your FAN-ID and match ticket for free bus/metro rides to the games.  Just a warning: be careful getting on and off the escalator and subway cars; they take no prisoners.  Everything seems to run in fast motion, so be alert. You'll also notice that the subway cars and stations are clean and very well organized (hint hint NYC officials), and overall safe.  In St. Petersburg there are no top up cards, so you'll need to purchase old-fashioned tokens.

Train station in Moscow

Another great perk while in Russia for the games is that you can travel by train  between match cities for free, provided you have a ticket for a game in the city you are traveling to! However, you would travel on the slower and basic trains. My time in Russia was limited, so I elected to take the high-speed train from Moscow to St. Pete, which arrived in under 4 hours and set me back about USD115. The slower train takes about 9 hours. I did screw up in that I booked directly with the train company instead of Way to Russia, which I referred my friend Jacek to. He got his ticket for USD105, which included USD40 food credit, so be sure to click on the link above. As of 1 November, 2017, you can sign up for a spot on a free intercity train with the confirmation number from your game tickets purchase.

High-speed train to St. Pete

TIP: Try to map out as well as possible in advance where your hotel is using a subway map if this is how you intend to arrive at your destination.  You can also purchase a Data SIM to help you get around using Google Earth (I tested this SIM and it works great!!!)

 SECURITY

Security at Fan Zone- St. Pete

Although political relations between Russia and many other countries may be somewhat contentious, this in no way should reflect how one feels concerning their personal safety. Having traveled from the UK to Russia on this trip, I actually felt the safest in Russia. I was pleasantly surprised with the quantity of security personnel at all the venues and throughout the city, particularly around transportation hubs. In addition, there were metal detectors in all the subway stations and even in stores. I never felt any danger, even when I was roaming around aimlessly, so this shouldn't be a big concern. This YouTube video gives a pretty good perspective, though I could do without the potty language.

Dealing with Rubles

As you probably know, the currency of Russia is the Ruble. I'll list a couple things to consider:

* Call your credit card or debit card provider before you travel and let them know the dates and places you are visiting so your card doesn't get put on hold (this happened to me once and was somewhat of a nightmare to resolve while overseas)

* Do some research on fees your credit or debit card enforces, and if you can even use your cards in the countries you will be visiting (I traveled with someone on this trip to Russia who found out his credit card wasn't even valid in Russia, but only when he tried to use it there). My credit card, Chase Freedom, charges  exorbitant fees for overseas usage, so don't use this card if you have it. I am also very leery about using my debit card overseas, especially in ATMs, being that if your card is compromised your checking account can be quickly drained; whereas with a credit card, even though you may be charged high interest fees for a cash advance, if your card is compromised at least you won't be immediately affected. You may wish to change money before you arrive in Russia, but check the exchange rate.  When I was in Russia this summer the rate was about 1USD=55Ruble, so it's pretty easy to figure prices out.
* Take a cell phone pic and make copies of your passport and other vital documents in case they get lost or stolen.

LODGING

Immaculately maintained metro system

As I am updating this blog in Dec. 2017, there are plenty of rooms available in the 2 cities I stayed in during the Confederation's Cup- Moscow and St. Petersburg- when I did a quick search on booking.com. (I also saw there is plenty of space in Sochi, which hosted the 2014 Winter Olympics and is a major destination for both domestic and international tourists).
I normally utilize Booking.com when I reserve rooms and did so for this trip to Russia, since with this service I can often change my reservations or cancel free of charge, which is great for a tournament such as the World Cup when no one knows where and when teams could end up as the tournament progresses. They also usually don't require a deposit.  Just a personal observation: during the Confederation's Cup I saw very few soccer fans on the streets (Moscow and St. Petersburg are 2 of the largest cities in Europe-  so there already is adequate capacity of lodging options in these two cities). Outside of these cities (and Sochi) there are going to be difficulties finding a room, which has been reported in the press for years leading up to the WC. In fact, while researching I found limited space and inflated prices (in fact some absurd prices) outside of the 3 mentioned cities. Many of the rooms which are currently available in Moscow and St Pete are primarily hostels and apartments, for as low as USD10/night. I also know a lot of fans will arrive the same day as the game and catch a train or plane out that night, thus not utilizing the hotel system. In addition, FIFA has a page for those looking for accommodations, though the prices seem inflated as well.
TIP:  Try to secure something with access to a fridge and laundry service and close to a metro station if possible..

Though I've never used AirBNB, they do offer rentals in Russia. One sidenote: if you were to travel to Russia outside of the World Cup, in order to apply for a visa you would need a visa support (the Russian Gov't aka Big Brother, wants to know your every move...) With the FAN-ID you don't need visa support to apply, but when I was in St. Pete I had to register via a government form at the hotel and pay R200, informing the government who I was and what I was doing.
  Booking.com
                                                            

Food and Drink

Here's to high cholestorol!

Coffee shop near Red Square

My first night in Moscow I devoured a hamburger (with cucumbers and pickles).  I ended up eating hamburgers a couple more times, but did find some authentic Russian restaurants, where I consumed high carbohydrate-laden delicacies (don't leave your cholesterol medication behind). The local fare isn't the worst and there are quite a few international eateries. But as expected, the food is heavy on the dough and cabbage and somewhat bland, but well worth exploring. Before traveling to Russia I was told by a native to try a Pelmeni while there.  On the beverage side, I was pleasantly surprised with the beer options (which all true football fans rely on). I enjoy dark beer and everywhere I went it flowed. Supermarkets had an incredibly wide array of choices, including Czech and Danish delights. Russian beer isn't all that bad either, though I did stay away from the one they sold in plastic 2-liter bottles at the super market. At the stadiums they offered Bud (Yikes!) and a decent Russian brew, for only R200 (about USD4). Go with the local beer. I didn't have much vodka while I was there, just brought some back for gifts.

WEATHER

Trying to blend in like a local ;)

When you think of Russia you think of cold, but being that we were there in June, I didn't think it would be too bad.  Moscow was pretty comfortable. I wasn't sure if it would be proper to wear shorts in Russia, so I wore sweatpants most of the time. There were however some people wearing shorts; I just personally didn't think it would be acceptable (These lightweight pants/shorts appear perfect for your trip). In St. Pete we encountered some pretty wretched weather: cold and rainy, and when it was raining it was quite miserable. I did have a nice windbreaker with a hood, which folds up compactly and fits in my mini backback I carried around. But you will also need some long sleeve shirts in St. Pete- the lows got into the upper 40's at night (less than 10C).  I would also bring a change of socks to carry around if you're doing a lot of walking- it's no fun schlepping around in damp socks if it rains. One other notable tidbit: the sun sets at 10:30pm and rises at 3:30am in June, but it never really gets dark at night. There are plenty of festivals going on all night long and if you enjoy history and culture, there's nearly a museum for every day of the year. I'll place a video at the end of this blog with some things to do and see in Moscow and St. Pete.   

LANGUAGE

It's obviously a good idea to know a few words when going to a foreign county, regardless of which country it is. Admittedly, I didn't know any Russian and felt somewhat ignorant, but people we encountered were extremely helpful and some even came up to us in metro stations while we were obviously confused and offered assistance. And many people surprisingly spoke English very well, particularly at hotels and tourist sites; and of course, there were always the friendly FAN ID volunteers lurking around. (If you do wish to learn a few words and phrases, this short video is great!)

Say What??

TRAVEL INSURANCE

Pay to Pee in St. Pete

When I originally started looking into attending the Confederation's Cup I quickly realized how difficult the visa process was (fortunately I later found out I didn't need a visa, since as I mentioned above, the FAN-ID doubles as one). If you were to travel on a common visa, you would need health insurance coverage. I had, however, already purchased the insurance and I think it's a good idea to have it.  It's from AIG and very reasonable- about USD40 for the week I was there. Coverage goes well beyond simple health issues, including cancellation of your trip. 

FAN ZONE

The "Fan Zone" has become a popular place for both international football fans and locals to congregate and enjoy the games. We didn't see one in Moscow (The Red Square would've been a great place), but did stumble upon it in St. Pete, right next to The Church of the Savior on Spilled Blood. We returned there later to see Russia play on the big screen, but unfortunately it rained a lot that day and it was pretty desolate. The locations of the FAN ZONES were announced.

GETTING TO RUSSIA

So you've gone thru all the information, checked your finances and available PTO days, and are leaning towards going.  Your next question might be, "How do I get there?" For the Confederation's Cup, I flew to London, then trekked across Europe to Berlin, where I caught a flight for USD100 to Moscow. The flight to London was USD300 (if I had booked a week earlier it would have been USD210). In fact, tickets are so low I'm heading back to Europe this Sept, catching a flight out of Newburgh, NY to Edinburgh, Scotland for a mere USD99 one way on Norwegian Airlines. While in Europe, it's sometimes cheaper to fly than travel by train (EasyJet plane tickets). So if you have time to travel around, why not take advantage and visit other

EasyJet - Amsterdam to Berlin

countries? You can even be a rebel and arrive in St. Pete just like Lenin when he started the Revolution, via a train from Helsinki! And you don't have to be in Russia to enjoy the Cup; I was in Holland during the 1990 World Cup and the atmosphere there was very festive. I will post a youtube on my adventures across Europe before I got to Russia shortly.

HOW MUCH AM I GOING TO SPEND THERE? 

Homestyle Breakfast at the Anturage

Another big issue for budget-minded fans is, "How much do I need to get by when I'm there?" I found items to be about the same price they are in US and the rest of Europe. I did eat out a lot and after a while craved a home-cooked meal. The hotel in Moscow had a nice breakfast buffet so I ate enough so that I didn't need lunch. When I was in St. Pete, the hotel gave us access to a fridge, so we bought cold cuts, cheese and bread, with some beer, and had a little game party at night, which was better than going out (surprisingly, there weren't many people watching the games at restaurants and bars; only one place we found had a crowd, which was an English-style pub near the Fan Zone in St. Pete. They did charge us for every individual item: USD1 for ketchup for our french fries and broke down Jacek's Cuba Libre into itemized costs for the rum and for the coke!). If you are on a tight budget, utilize grocery stores. 

 

GAME DAY!!! 

What is it going to be like on game day? Here's a little rundown:

* No food or drinks allowed in! I had a small bag of cashews which was confiscated. So eat up before getting to the game. I think they had hot dogs and junk food at the stadium, but I didn't get near any of it- my diet was all liquid at the games.

Behind Krestovsky Stadium

* Security is very, very tight, similar to going through an airport. You need to present your FAN ID and game day ticket. You will not get in if you don't have both of these, though from what I am gathering, as long as you have a FAN ID it doesn't matter whose name is on the game ticket (see video below: "Entering Spartak Stadium")
* You can bring in a small bag, which I did, with no problem. I just had a rain jacket and other items in it. If you have a big bag, there is a place to check it, but the line was huge after the game to retrieve bags, so don't do this if you can avoid it.

* The Russian beer is good at the games, and you get a fancy souvenir cup to boot. They even sell beer in 4 packs if you're real thirsty (see video below: "Route to Spartak Stadium")

Matt somehow got mixed up with Chilean fans

* As I mentioned, you can ride the metro and bus for free on game day- just have your FAN ID and ticket on hand. After the game, you pretty much have to follow the herd- security keeps you moving along. Everything is run very smoothly and efficiently, and though I didn't see any rowdy fans, I imagine that if an altercation occurs it would be quickly resolved (My advice? Don't be a jerk and put yourself in a position where something bad could come about. Don't test the system as I don't know how much backing you'd have).

Security Check- Krestovsky Stadium

* There were no pubs close to the 2 stadiums I visited, in Moscow and St. Pete. In St. Pete, you will need to walk about 2km to the stadium through a nice park after getting off the metro. The atmosphere was pretty electric, which surprised me for a game between Cameroon and Australia. 

I'll place a couple videos below showing the route from our hotels to the Spartak Stadium in Moscow and Krestovsky Stadium in St. Pete so you have a feel for what it will be like:

  

  Route to Spartak Stadium

  Moscow

 Route to Krestovsky Stadium

 St. Petersburg

 The behemoth Krestovsky Stadium suffered through a long period of corruption, delays, and political shenanigans before it was finally completed at a cost of well over 1 billion USD, and 8 years after its original expected completion date.  Following are some of the outrageous construction stats:

Stadium metal structures weight: 32 thousand tons, which is comparable to 4 Eiffel Towers;

486 m3 of concrete was used during construction:  5.5 times more than for Wembley stadium; 

Stadium roof area: 71000 sq. m, which is approximately 3 Red Squares 

OTHER SOURCES FOR INFO

When I first starting looking into going to the Confederation's Cup, I obviously had a lot of questions and was eager to find out what I was getting in to. Trip Advisor provided me with a lot of information, being that I identified with other fans who were in the same predicament, which gave me a little sense of security. I'm sure more sites will pop up as the World Cup gets closer. There are also tons of FaceBook group pages for Football Supporters. Another good source is Real Russia. Feel free to list any pages below in the "Comments" section that you may come across and are helpful.

You can view more pictures of my trip here on Flickr



TRAVEL ITEMS YOU NEED TO HAVE
(And Make GREAT GIFTS!) 
Below are some items which I found to be indispensable for my trip to Russia (and other overseas destinations for that matter).  I used most of them on my trip and recommend looking into purchasing them soon to avoid headaches later. Let me know if you have any questions. All of them, except the SIM Cards, are conveniently available on Amazon.

 Mini Backpack
Low price of only USD11.49!

This bag is perfect for daily outings: lightweight and water resistant, it folds up neatly into a small pouch, though it's big enough to store items such as your rain jacket, water bottles, etc.
I got into the stadium with this bag.

Plug Adapter
Only USD6.49!

You need to have an adapter when you travel overseas and this one worked perfectly for me. I used it throughout Western Europe (except UK) and Russia. It has 2 inputs, so I was able  to charge multiple devices (IPhones, which are dual voltage), though if you need to charge more devices, I would also purchase an additional adapter (this one has 4 USB ports)

Light Weight Rain Jacket
USD13.00

There's a good chance that during your stay in Russia it will rain. You will need to be prepared unless you enjoy being cold, damp and miserable. Although I did not use the jacket featured here, this seems to be exactly what you will need: light weight (7oz.), 100% water proof with a hood, it restuffs into the pocket.

Samsonite Travel Bag
Price now only USD47.19

This travel bag was truly the best purchase I made for my trip, and priced much lower than you find on Samsonite's website! As we all know, traveling by plane has become more complicated, with added charges for checked baggage. I was able to carry this bag into the cabin (which probably saved me more than the cost of the bag!). It has straps to use as a backpack and wheels for easy transport. Everything I brought with me easily fit into it. The Samsonite brand assures me I made a wise purchase. This bag will pay you back many times over!!

International Data SIM

Starting at USD29

Finally, perhaps one of most important items you'll need for your trip is a SIM card. I suggest the "Telestial Data SIM", which I used everywhere from London to Moscow and it never let me down. Though there are plenty of places with Wi-Fi availability, you'll need a data SIM when using Google Earth (a must when navigating the labyrinthine streets of Russia) and apps such as WhatsApp for voice communication, allowing you to stay in contact with fellow football fans in Russia and back home, while also posting photos instantly to social media at the games!!


Click below for a short demonstration video of the products shown above:

When not attending the games you'll want to visit some of the great sites in Moscow and St. Petersburg:

About me: my passion for soccer began at the rather late age of 14. Since then, I've played, coached and refereed over the past 40 years and currently am a team coordinator for a local Over-30 club in the NY state capital district. I've also traveled to 3 World Cups, starting in 1986, and plan to visit Russia again next year for the 2018 World Cup. I started writing blogs a few years ago and concentrate on the traveler's side of major sporting events. I've written 2 blogs already for events in Brasil (the past Olympics and World Cup), and now present this latest blog, based on my recent trip to Russia for the 2017 Confederation's Cup, which I also released in Spanish. Feel free to leave comments and share with like-minded fanatics!!





Where politics collide with sport:

Below are updates I have come across. Feel free to add anything else in the comments section.

13 Aug. '17.  It was reported that you can now reserve in advance a train ticket for travel between World Cup cities, beginning at some point the end of this year.  Free Train Travel

12 Sept. '17.  FIFA just announced that phase I Random Selection ticket draw begins Sept 14 and runs through Oct. 12.:  Random Selection Draw, Phase I

11 Nov. '17. I've noticed a lot of people inquiring about the FAN ID: if you need confirmation of ticket purchase to obtain it, if when entering the stadium your FAN ID and tickets need to match with the same name, etc.  Here is what I can tell you:
- You need a confirmation number from a ticket purchase in order to apply for the FAN ID. However, I cannot confirm if the confirmation number needs to include ticket(s) with your name. (when I applied for tickets for the Confederation's Cup, there were 4 of us included in our ticket purchase, and we each used the same ticket confirmation number, but I don't know if someone else could have used our ticket confirmation number to obtain a FAN ID). 
- Also, when entering the stadium in Moscow during the Confederation's Cup, we got our tickets mixed up, resulting in the first person passing through security with their own FAN ID, but with another person's ticket. I'll place a video below showing this, at the 24 second mark:

16 Nov. 2017. I just saw the video below, which is pretty good and gives some insight into what it will be like to visit some of the Russian host cities by train: 

29 Nov. 2017  The venues were just announced for the FanFest!  

FanFest St. Petersburg

21 Jan. 2018 FIFA just won an injunction against 3rd party reseller Viagogo. It sounds like they are going to crack down on illicit sales, but will they check tickets at the gate to ensure the game ticket holder matches the FAN-ID?? The suspense is building....

16 March 2018 This link has some in-depth info. on transportation during the World Cup.