Friday, April 8, 2016

Rio Olympics 2016, Things to Know Before You Go

The Rio Olympic Mascot Vinicius
  

"The most important thing in the Olympic Games is not to win but to take part, just as the most important thing in life is not the triumph but the struggle. The essential thing is not to have conquered but to have fought well."   Olympic Creed

View from Sugar Loaf Mountain
 If you are reading this you're probably planning on going to the Olympics in Rio this year, and you would like to find out as much as possible before you go.  Well, you've come to the right blog.  This is my second foray in the blogosphere, as I took a leap into this arena a couple of years ago for the World Cup in Brasil.  There is a lot of practical information on that blog, and in fact, it would be a good place to start before continuing with this blog (and will also save me the trouble of repeating stuff and allow me to dedicate more space to the Rio experience).  Thus, it would be a good idea to click on the following link before proceeding:World Cup 2014 Blog


"Brasil é o país do futuro, e sempre será"
         (Brasil is the country of the future, and it always will be)

For anyone planning on traveling to Brasil this summer (winter in Brasil), I'm sure you have many questions and doubts about what you're getting yourself into, and rightfully so.  Brasil is going through a very difficult period, in more than one sense.  The economy is the worst it's been in decades, thanks in part to a political crisis that's intertwined with the state-owned petroleum conglomerate Petrobras, and which could bring down the country's first female president, Dilma Rouseff, along with scandals involving construction projects, including those of Olympic venues.  Add to all this the recent onset of zika, questions revolving around security for tourists in Rio during the Olympics and concerns with infrastructure, and you have a cocktail of issues that even the most optimistic person would have difficulties reconciling.

So, with this blog I will attempt to at least provide insight into these issues and inform the reader what to expect.  I traveled to Rio the end of May to get a first-hand account of the situation.



Here we go.....

Copacabana Beach, site of Beach Volleyball

19 April 2016

Back in 1986 I arrived in Rio de Janeiro, right after witnessing the most exciting sporting event in my life up to that point, the World Cup in Mexico. I had just graduated from college 6 months earlier, and now was on my way to study Portuguese at PUC University, where my school, the University of Arizona, had an international program, and learn about Brasil. Having taken Portuguese classes at the U of A, and studied Brasilian culture and history, I thought I was fairly prepared for what I was about to experience. I was assigned to live with an older lady 2 blocks from the beach in Ipanema.  After getting settled in, I threw down my bags and headed right to the beach.

Over the next year, I learned Portuguese and quite a bit more, experiencing everything Rio had to offer and also having the opportunity to travel outside of Rio.  I was both impressed and deceived all at once.

Brasil can accurately be described as a country of contrasts:  modern vs. antiquated, rich vs. poor, highly educated vs. unknowingly ignorant.  It's a county to indulge in and savor every drop, where people enjoy life to its fullest, yet live in constant fear.  Fear of being mugged and ripped off, by street thieves and corrupt politicians.  They complain about their lives and their country, yet celebrate like no other when Carnaval comes around, or when their national team beats a rival on the soccer pitch.

Back in 1986 Brasil was going thru a 'crisis', a term which I found out over the next few decades is a part of their daily jargon.  Today, thirty years later, Brasil is still going thru numerous crises, which reminds me of the phrase "Brasil is the country of the future, and it always will be", which I heard before my first trip there.

In 1986, with inflation over 100% a year, the federal government instituted a price freeze on all products and wages- I was able to buy draft beers at my favorite bar for only 25cents!  (My good friend Fernando, who I'd meet later in the year, once told me Brasil suffers from "normal inflation", around 200% per year, and "hyper inflation", which reached a mind-boggling 30,000% in 1990!)  I returned to Brasil in 1992 and stayed until 1997, experiencing different degrees of inflation and austerity measures by the government.  In 1997, the economy was looking good and inflation was under control, thanks to bold steps taken by then-president Fernando Cardoso.  Since 1997 Brasil has prospered under different presidential parties, and while the middle class has grown in size and income, foreign investment has also steadily increased since the mid-nineties.  Brasilian currency is the "Real" (pronounced "Hey Al")


Opening Ceremonies - London 2012   


So enough of economics!  If you are going to this year's Olympics, you will be a part of history, as this is the first time the Olympic games we be held in South America (they were held in Latin America in 1968 in Mexico City)







"Cada País tem o Governo que Merece " -old French proverb, in Portuguese
(People of each country have the government they deserve)

I will break down concerns for tourists into 3 main categories:  Zika, Crime an Infrastructure


Should I be worried about Zika???

Jesse Owens won 4 Gold Medals at the 1936 Olympics Berlin
From what I have read and researched, Zika is not a life-threatening illness and you should not be overly concerned.  Zika appears to have been brought to Brasil from the Pacific rim, possibly during an international sporting event, such as the World Cup in 2014.  In the US, it's estimated that over 30,000 people die per year from the flu and flu-related illnesses but only a handful of people may actually have died from Zika, and some people who have contracted Zika did not even know they had it.  In fact, Dengue, which is on the rise in Brasil, is much more lethal and prevalent (see Washington Post story).  I contracted dengue back in the '90s when I lived in the state of Bahia, and was bed-ridden for a week, with a fever and chills, and every joint in my body aching.  The issue with Zika, I believe, is that it is a relatively unknown and mysterious illness, and happens to be coming onto the scene in a country where the world is turning its attention.  Zika is a vector-borne disease, meaning it is spread by a living organism, in this case a mosquito (the same mosquito which carries the dengue virus).  It has been reported that zika may also be contracted through sexual contact.  The biggest threat from the disease is to unborn children, where an infected mother can pass the disease on to the fetus, who may then be born with microcephaly, a condition where the brain does not develop properly and the head is abnormally small. Thus, I would strongly suggest that if you are female, and are pregnant or plan to get pregnant, you cancel your trip to Rio. To avoid contracting zika (or dengue for that matter), if you do go, I would do the same thing I'd do if I were to walk through the woods here in the US- wear a long sleeve shirt and use bug repellent.


Maracanã Stadium, site of some soccer matches

Is crime in Brasil as bad as I heard it is??
In relative terms, if you are from the US or Europe, the crime rate is higher than what you are accustomed to.  Though the term crime is a very general term, it does encompass simple theft, kidnapping and murder.  Having lived in Brasil for over 5 years, one of those years in Rio, I can say that all types of crime are present.  Not only have I had objects stolen from me, I've known people who were killed and kidnapped.  From my personal standpoint, it seems a lot of robberies in Brasil are the result of desperate people needing some way to get by.  There is also organized crime in Brasil, particularly where there are gangs, and thus violence (I had my backpack stolen outside of the bus station in Rio by two youths, one of whom had a weapon).  HOWEVER, with Rio being the spotlight of the world for an entire month, local authorities will be doing everything they can to make the city safe and secure for tourists- there will be double the amount of police than there were in London for their Olympic games, and the World Cup 2014 was relatively peaceful, considering it was held in cities across all of Brasil.  Rio, however, is a hotspot for gangs, drugs and organized crime.  Be careful:  don't carry expensive items with you on the street, try not to stand out, and most importantly, don't ever resist if you are held up!  Many of the perpetrators are under 18, as they are immune from any punishment under Brasilian laws.  I found a pretty good bulletin board where both Brasilians and foreigners post comments, if you'd like to look into this further: Blog on Crime


        "Why do today what you can put off 'til tomorrow?"
     (Quote from my college roommate, circa 1981, regarding schoolwork)


Construction ongoing- 2 months before the games begin!
Infrastructure, or lack thereof, is one of the biggest concerns in Brasil any day of the week, but particularly when there is a major event taking place, which the Olympics qualifies as.  Rio (which actually should be named "Bahia" and not Rio, since it straddles a bay but was incorrectly named by explorers), is squeezed into an area between a bay, the ocean and mountains.  Rio is the second largest city in Brasil, and getting around the city is a challenge, especially during rush hour.  During the World Cup, host cities shut down during the games- businesses and schools were closed.  The Olympic Village and Stadium are located southwest of town, and most tourists will be lodged in the "Zona Sul", which includes Copacabana and Ipanema.  Getting fans to the venues in Barra da Tijuca is the main focus for transit planners, and it appears they have not done a good job as projects which were presented to the IOC will not be completed.  Perhaps the most important project is the metro line connecting the Zona Sul to Barra da Tijuca, the major Olympic hub, which is expected to be completed a mere 5 days before the Olympics begin New Metro Line connecting Ipanema to Olympic Site

And right on cue, mere hours after the Olympic Flame was lit in Greece on April 21 to begin its journey to Rio, a bike bridge collapsed in Rio, killing at least 2 people.  The bridge was to be part of the overall upgrade in infrastructure promised by Brasilian authorities to be ready before the Olympics
Bike bridge collapse

Roof of hotel- Zika didn't have a chance!

If you haven't yet booked a room for your trip, I would do so right away.. From what I've read, there isn't much left. I stayed at the Hotel Atlântico Copacabana for my May trip.  I am familiar with the area and feel comfortable with this selection. 

I have never used airbnb, but they are the "Official Alternative Accommodation Services Supplier", whatever that means.  I think this would be a good option and for the most part, Brasilian people are very accommodating.  AirBNBRio-2016

If you still need plane tickets and are flying from the US, I would call BACC (1-800-BACC-RIO) and ask for Marcia.  Normally you would need a visa to travel to Brasil, but during the Olympics, the visa requirements will be waived:




Lookout point over Rio

Due to the 2016 Olympics in Rio, Brasil is suspending the need for Visa's for the citizens of the following countries:  
USA - Canada - Australia - Japan

First day of entry June 1st, 2016
Last day of entry Sept 18th, 2016
Maximum stay:  90 days
No tickets to the Olympics necessary

23 May - 2 June, 2016


This next section will focus on side trips to locations outside of Rio, which can be completed in a couple of days, and which will compliment your trip and experience in Brasil.   It is worth getting out of town, as there is a whole other world to be explored.  I visited the following places:


I. Paraty 
Church by the piers in Paraty

Paraty is small colonial town located 250 KM (150 miles) south west of Rio de Janeiro on the coast, bordering the state of São Paulo.  It is surrounded by the ocean- with over 100 islands- as well as ecological reserves and national parks filled with natural wonders.  Whether you are interested in history, nature, or eco-adventures, this place has it all.  I took a bus from Rio de Janeiro (get a taxi to the bus station, which is in a seedy part of town where I got held up before).  I wasn't able to purchase a ticket online as you need to be a Brazilian resident to do so. But I was able to see a layout of the seats and determine how many were reserved before I got to the bus station, so had a good sense of whether or not I would be able to catch the bus.  It's important you also purchase in Rio your return ticket, just to be sure you'll have a way back.  Costa Verde is the only bus line serving Rio > Paraty.

Kayaking in the ocean across from the hotel

You can take a taxi from Rio to Paraty for about $200 round trip, but there is a lot to do in Paraty and it's best to spend at least a couple of days to really enjoy all the city has to offer.

 




Be sure to take a schooner trip. It lasts around 6 hours and only sets
you back about US$20.  Drinks and food are available on the boats or you can bring food in your backpack (don't tell them I said it's OK).  The schooner we took was great: Banzay Schooner

II. Petrópolis

Statue of the Emperor Dom Pedro II
Located about 1 1/2 hours west of Rio, at an altitude of 2,749 feet, Petrópolis (the "Imperial City") offers a nice escape from the hustle and bustle of Rio.  In the winter (June-August) temperatures average in the low 70s for a high, and mid 50s for a low, so be prepared if you do go. Petrópolis served as a getaway for early emperors and aristocrats,  and the city is saturated with historical sites.  Be sure to visit the home of Santos Dumont, who Brasilians claim (actually insist) is the father of aviation, and the Imperial Museum- summer home to Dom Pedro II, an emperor who ruled Brasil for 58 years .  There is also a local brewery with a restaurant and pub if you are a beer connoisseur (Petrópolis is the second largest beer producer in the country).

Rio Negro Palace

I saw a lot of tour buses in the city, so if you'd like to visit Petrópolis, this might be a good option.  I couldn't find much info online, but I'm sure hotels in Rio can assist.  You can also take a bus to Petrópolis (bus line is "Transportes Unica") from the main Rio bus station and stay in one of the fabulous hotels (I stayed at "Princesa Isabel", which was centrally located in the historic district and offered a fantastic breakfast, with staff that went out of their way to accommodate me, and the price was right at less than US$75/night)


For a full video presentation of this blog, please click on the following link:  
Tips for Travelers to Rio 2016

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