Guide to the Majestic Island of "Ilha Grande" on Rio's Southern Coast

Abraãozinho Beach

After graduating from the University of Arizona in December of 1985 I asked my Dad for a one way ticket to Brasil as my graduation present. Having studied Portuguese for a couple of years to raise my GPA, my eyes were set on studying a semester in Rio via a program my college offered there. Soon after arriving, together with a group of about 15 other students from all over the country, we went on an excursion to the island of “Ilha Grande”, located a few hours south of Rio, though still in the state of Rio. Fast forward to April of 2022 and I returned to the Island to celebrate my birthday and relive the experience I enjoyed decades earlier. A year later, for my upcoming milestone birthday, I decided to return to the island again and brought down my girlfriend and my daughter, along with her boyfriend, to mark the event and share the unique offerings to be found on the island. Thus, this blog serves as a primer to those thinking of making the same trek we did.

Kayaking along the coast

 Why Should You Visit Ilha Grande? I'll Tell You Why:

• An abundance of natural beauty from unspoiled rain forests, pristine beaches and numerous ocean activities. Or if you prefer, you can just kick back and take in the panorama while savoring fresh seafood and downing caipirinhas at beachfront restaurants and bars stationed right on the sand.

  

  Hiking Around the Island

  
  

• Hiking around the island on well-marked trails, which guide you past breathtaking vistas of the ocean and mountains, historical ruins, secluded beaches and even a fresh waterfall slide with a natural pool! For those who are more adventurous, you can take a guided hike to the top of “Pico do Papagaio”, rated the No.1 attraction on TripAdvisor, for about $50/person.

  

  Well marked hiking trails
  

  
  

• Kayaking over turquoise waters past luxury yachts and rustic fishing boats to distant beaches (we spotted a sea turtle with its periscope head cruising by us last time)

• Schooner excursions around the island, offered by numerous companies at very affordable rates: we paid about US$13 each for a 5 ½ hour tour with stops at 2 beaches and another stop for lunch.

  *  While visiting the island for my birthday, we visited a very unique place by small tour boat, which was the home to only 3 such phenomena in the

  world: The Gruta de Acaiá or

  

  Gruta de Acaiá

  Acaiá cave. You would need to arrive by boat and I believe only tour boats are allowed as reservations need to be coordinated with the place, as it is private property. According to our knowledgeable tour guide, who spoke decent English, the cave was only discovered in the 1980's as it is situated on 'holy grounds' and the family which resides on the property had a certain fear of going into the cave. Which makes this particular cave exceptional is that you enter going down a steep stairway, but as you traverse from one end to the other, you arrive at a place where the ocean appears from under a rock formation, giving the area a unique fluorescent glow. A small pool is

  

  Preparing to go Down Under
  

  
  formed at the seam, though I would take strong precautions if going in it (a wave unexpectedly crashed under the rock from the outside and swept 3 people into the water. The guide ran over to bring them back to safety and then prohibited everyone from going back in). It is also a little tricky to get over to the area where the pool is located from the stairway, as you are holding onto a cable and shimmying along on your behind. Flip flops aren't allowed in as they could easily fall off and land somewhere below in the abyss.  However, this was a once-in-a-lifetime experience, though not for the feint of heart. The small boat also made a few other stops at beaches to hang out.
  
  
  * You can also charter a small boat as we did on the day of my birthday (From Doidera Passeios). The cost was less than US$300 and we ordered ahead of time a BBQ kit (about US$60), which the captain of the boat graciously prepared for us (the BBQ grill was attached to the back of the boat). This excursion was worth every penny, or centavo, as we had only our family on

  

  BBQ Onboard!
  

  board and were able to spend as much time as we liked at each stop and were able to visit more obscure and intimate locations. The boat we chartered holds up to 6 people so a few couples could partake in the experience and split the cost.

  

  Schooner Excursion
  

  
  

  How do You Get to Ilha Grande?

The best way to travel to the island is using one of the shared transport companies. There are a couple of companies to use, which pick you up at your hotel in Rio and bring you to a point where you catch the boat to Ilha Grande. This is the quickest and easiest way to travel there and surprisingly very reasonably priced. I RECOMMEND THIS OPTION!

Ferry Boat to the Island

There is also a ferry boat from Angra dos Reia, CCR Barcas, Monday – Friday at 15:30 and Saturday, Sunday and Holidays at 13:30, which is cheaper but for those who just want to get to their destination not worth it (half the fun is NOT getting their IMO). Or you can get to Angra dos Reis by car or bus and take the speed boat, which we did the first time we visited.

Speed Boat to the Island

 What to Know Before You Go:

* For most of my lifetime, I needed a visa to travel to Brasil, which was complicated and required an in-person visit to a Brazilian consulate.  However, in 2019 the law changed and US citizens were able enter visa free. Now, starting in April of 2025, Brasil will reinstate the visa requirements, though it most likely won't require a personal visit to a Brasilian consulate as it can be done online. If you plan to visit in 2025 or after make sure you get the latest info before traveling.

                                                     Abraãozinho Beach

* If you're on a budget and want to avoid the crowds, the best time to travel is between September and December 1, or after March 1 (The Brasil summer is peak season, Dec – February). Plane tickets to Brasil soar during the peak season and Brasilians travel a lot around Christmas, New Years, and the Carnaval. I've gotten plane tickets through BACC travel in NYC since the mid 80's and they do a great job. Just call them at 1-800-BACC-RIO. However, on my last trip to Ilha Grande for my Big Birthday I purchased tickets on google and it worked out fine.

Pousada Só Natureza

* Hotel prices vary substantially on the island as you'll see an array of travelers from backpackers to resort hotel guests. We stayed at the “Pousada Só Natureza” for 4 nights on our first trip back. The pousada is conveniently located in the center of Abraão and is very reasonably priced at about US$95/night, which included breakfast and it had a nice swimming pool. It was easily within walking distance of the pier and all the attractions. 

Area Available For Festivities

When we headed back to Ilha Grande for my Big 60, we stayed at Mata Nativa, which is located a little farther up the hill past the village but still within easy walking distance of the pier, though you might want to hire someone to lug your luggage to the Pousada from the pier.

Bungalow Rooms at Mata Nativa

Most of the rooms are bungalows, or as my daughter described them, TeePees. There is a nice little pool at the rear of the hotel and an area next to it which you can rent out for gatherings and events, and which has a charcoal grill, stove and refrigerator, plus plenty of seating. The breakfast was wonderful and the staff accommodating. It also is family friendly with a little playground. This will be my landing spot for my next trip there, possibly in November.

My daughter and her boyfriend stayed at the hotel Asalem. This beautiful place is located on a cliff with stunning views overlooking the ocean and hamlet of Abraão.

View from Hotel Asalem

You'd have to get a ride there with their "yacht", as my daughter called it, from the pier to the hotel, though it is possible to trek along the coast to get back and forth. We went over for dinner one night and had a lovely time.

 

A dinner for 2 on the island will run around US$40 - US$60. Mixed drinks in bars and restaurants are about US$5. Brasilians drink a lot of beer so you'll find a good selection almost anywhere.

 

Breakfast at the Pousada

Other Tidbits:

* You'll hear a lot of Spanish spoken on the island. Just as Americans travel to Cancun for vacay, Argentines travel in droves to tourist areas along the Southern Brasilian coast and many of them have even taken up residence. In fact, we rented our kayak from an Argentine lady and booked our schooner tour from another. So if you speak Spanish, puedes comunicar con mucha gente. 

*Though many parts of Brasil are relatively violent and crime is prevalent, particularly Rio and Sao Paulo, Ilha Grande is very safe as there is only one small hamlet; all the residents seem to know each other. Besides, there's nowhere for thieves to hide or run to, so you can let your guard down and enjoy.

Drinks on the Beach

* PACK LIGHT!! This is my number one piece of advice. You'll be traveling in taxis (or ubers), vans, buses, boats, and walking  good distances with your bag, so keep it light! Everything you bring should fit in a bag which would fit in an overhead bin on a plane. I bring only 2 or 3 shorts/bathing suit and about 5 t-shirts and a few other clothing items. There was a laundromat on the street behind our pousada Só Natureza with reasonable prices, or you can just wash some of your clothes and hang them in your room (pick up bar laundry soap at Walmart for 99cents before traveling).

Path to Pousada

Some other essentials are: flip flops (and hiking sneakers, which I wear down on the plane), sunscreen, hand sanitizer, sunglasses, plastic bags, blue tooth speaker (I like to listen to jazz and tropical music while I'm traveling), a mini backpack, a foldup rain jacket, mini lock for your suitcase, washcloths (you won't find any at your hotel), a beach towel (if there's room in your suitcase) and body wash. You'll also need a Brasilian plug adaptor you can find on Amazon. I also have a USB strip with 4 inputs I always travel with in case my hotel only has one socket and I have numerous devices to charge (you can also find this on Amazon). Finally, I always bring along a few energy bars to fill me up between meals. That's about it; just remember less is more. If you forget something, you can most likely purchase it at your destination (yes, they do make aspirin and razor blades outside of the US). So be bright, travel light!!

Money exchange: Everyone has a different view on how to handle money overseas and it depends on the country you are visiting as well. For Brasil, it's probably best to withdraw some cash from an ATM, either at a bank or the airport, then use your credit card for most purchases (though make sure your card doesn't charge exorbitant international fees). Don't use your debit card outside of withdrawals since you run the risk of having your card stolen or hacked, then your checking or savings account gets drained before you know it.

Accodomodations:

Pousada Portal do Sol

As I mentioned, we stayed at the hotel Pousada Só Natureza on Ilha Grande our first visit. We had originally booked to stay at Pousada Portal do Sol but got a notice a few weeks before we were to travel advising that heavy rains had forced the Pousada to temporarily close.  In any event, we canoed by the place and it looked nice, though to get there you'd need to trek along the shore on dirt paths for about 1/2 hour or take a boat from the main pier.

Hotel Atlântico Copacabana

 

If staying in Rio to sightsee before heading to Ilha Grande, which we did the following April, a hotel I recommend would be the Hotel Atlantico Copacabana. A good itinerary would be:

Day 1: Start at Copacabana beach. Take in some of the natural beauty and absorb some rays, then maybe have a late lunch along the sidewalk (calçada) with a few capirinhas to wash it down, then stroll over to Ipanema and watch the sun set, as we did. After, Uber to hotel.

Sunset Ipanema

Copacabana Beach

Day 2:  Get up early and have breakfast, then head to Christ the Redeemer by Uber. I did this trip about 6 years ago and took a van to the top, starting at the base. We stopped along the way for some spectacular views. Last year however we got an uber which took us almost to the top, where we then had to purchase a ticket and hop in a park van to the top.
I preferred the trip which started at the bottom. The trip up to the statue and back took a few hours. You can grab a bite to eat where you originally caught the park van to the top or wait until you get off the mountain. Once nourished, catch an Uber to Sugarloaf, the other spectacular must-see attraction in Rio. We got our tickets right at the gate, which I think was best since we were able to get a senior discount. Just one piece of advice, the "friendly" workers will try to coax you into purchasing a picture at hugely inflated prices.

View from Christ the Redeemer

Sugarloaf

They heard me talking English and wanted to charge me about US$18 for a photo with my partner and Sugarloaf in the backround. On my way to pay, I heard another attendant offering the same pictures, actually 2 pictures, for half the price to a Brasilian couple.  I complained profusely and got an even better deal. So beware!

Day 3: Breakfast at the hotel and off to Ilha Grande!

 

View from Sugarloaf

 

Though a little outdated, I have more travel tips for Brasil on a previous blog I wrote for the World Cup in Brasil: http://brasilfuteboltravel.blogspot.com/2014/05/tips-for-travelers-to-brasil-2014.html 

 

Trip Advisor (Things to do in Ilha Grande): https://www.tripadvisor.com/Attractions-g303489-Activities-Angra_Dos_Reis_State_of_Rio_de_Janeiro.html 

  

Hopefully this blog supplied you with the information you need to travel to and explore Ilha Grande. Feel free to leave any comments below. Thank You and Enjoy the Adventure!

Exploring the Caribbean Coast of Costa Rica and Panama

Exploring the Caribbean Coast of Costa Rica and Panamá  

Update: I visited Costa Rica again in Sept 2019 with my daughter and her friend to celebrate her 21st birthday. A few things have changed:
- Monly's is no longer located on the main street but a few blocks away in a larger space. We ate there and had a great meal, well worth the visit
- The best mojitos we had were at Nemas
- "Lazy Mon" changed their name to "Stamfords", which apparently they were before
- "Sol del Caribe" appears to be out of business-  closed the entire time we were there
"Blue Conga Hotel" is still a great value 

Sunset on Starfish Beach, Panamá

If your search for tips on traveling to Costa Rica/Panamá led you to this point, YOU’VE LANDED ON THE RIGHT BLOG! I put together this page to better help you get the most out of your trip to these exciting destinations. Over the past few years I’ve penned a few blogs focusing mainly on travel info for those going to major sporting events, such as the Olympics and World Cup, with an emphasis on logistics:  getting to the cities, accommodations, dining/nightlife and what to do while there. Spending as little as possible while maximizing your experience is my game. So let’s get at it!!

I’ve organized this blog into sections to better help you follow it, then take you along as I travel from San Jose to the Caribbean seaside town of Puerto Viejo. I then cross over the border and venture on to the tropical islands of Bocas del Toro, Panamá.

Monly's, Puerto Viejo, CR

Planning Your Trip 

When preparing your trip you should keep in mind a couple of things: mainly peak/offpeak seasons and weather, which go hand in hand. The dry season runs December through April, which is when most people travel to CR and prices tend to be higher and accommodations more difficult to secure. If you travel during the rainy season there’s a possibility that roads can be washed out and thus impassable but on the upside prices will be lower and availability of rooms and travel options more plentiful. Trip Advisor is a good place to get unbiased reviews of hotels/restaurants/things to do. As far as travel documents, all you need is a passport if you are an American citizen. And don’t forget to contact your credit/debit card company to let them know where you are traveling and the dates you will be away.

Weather 

Punta Uva Beach, CR

As I alluded to above, there are basically 2 seasons: wet and dry! Temperature-wise, it is moderate with highs rarely above 90 and lows barely below 70 throughout most of Costa Rica. Thus, it’s wise to bring along a light-weight, water-resistant jacket.  I found people in San Jose wear long pants and shorts, whereas in the coastal cities shorts are fine anywhere. Casual is king, so don’t pack anything fancy. I wore shorts and flip-flops all the time on this trip and never took out my sneakers, which I would have worn if we had gone biking, but we didn’t. It’s also good to bring a small water-resistant backpack with you for day trips and hanging on the beach. Pack light as you may be on the move (we went from trains, subways and taxis in NY, to vans, buses, water taxis, and downright schlepping it in CR and Panama). We also saved $30 each way by packing all our luggage in carry-on bags we brought on the plane (check out my YouTube video for more tips on low budget travel!)

Flight Info 

Landing in San José

I usually use "Google Flights" for booking flights anywhere. I would however avoid Spirit Airlines unless you don’t mind sitting in rigid bus-style seats that don’t recline. We flew Delta this time and were able to bring our carry-on bags onboard with no charges ($400 RT from LaGuardia). Flights from the Northeast US depart early but you arrive in San Jose around noon (San Jose is 1-2 hours behind EDT, depending on the time of year you travel), so you should have no problem getting to your final destination in CR the same day.

Transportation within Costa Rica      

Our Gecko Trail Driver

Currently Sansa is the main airline operating within CR, as Nature Air went out of business the middle of 2018 following a fatal air crash New Year’s Eve 2017. There are a few smaller airlines just getting off the ground (pun intended), though none offers service to the destinations we traveled to (Puerto Viejo and Bocas del Toro).  I’ve traveled by bus a few times within CR and had no problems but for the most part I prefer van service offered by Gecko Trail CR. For this last trip, we paid the charter price as there were 4 of us and this was cheaper than the shared van in our case and much more convenient. I’ve used the shared service in the past and it is a little less convenient as you may need to wait for other travelers’ flights to arrive before you leave the airport and it might also take a little longer to arrive at your destination as fellow travelers may need to be left off at their destinations before you. If you need a taxi within San José or for excursions, Vladmir is reliable. Here's his email.

Hotel Mango, San José

Hotel Accommodations

I use Booking.com whenever I travel, including to CR. With Booking.com I can usually cancel and/or change my reservations with no penalty. You can also access helpful reviews from fellow travelers on their site.

Language

Fortunately I am fluent enough to get by with Spanish, but for the most part, you can make do with little or no knowledge of Spanish. It is, however, useful to know a few basic words, if for nothing else as a courtesy to the people you engage with.

Currency 

For this trip, my greenbacks were accepted almost everywhere. I didn’t exchange money or use the ATM when I arrived at San José Airport (There is an ATM on departure level but the withdraw limit is US$100). Many places in CR accept US Dollars and may give you change in Colones (the exchange rate in Dec. '18 was about 600Colones=US$1). I waited until I got to Puerto Viejo and used the ATM there, though the line could get long as there aren’t many ATMs around. In Panamá you can use US Dollars anywhere; the official currency is the Balboa but it is equal to the dollar, which has been legal tender since 1904.

Red Frog Beach, Panamá

Safety Concerns

Despite a serious crime occurring while we were in CR where a 37y.o. US citizen was murdered at an AirBNB in San José, CR for the most part is relatively safe; in fact, it’s one of the safest countries in all Latin America. Common sense precautions are usually all you need. Many hotels and hostels have a safe, but I always bring a lock to secure my luggage just in case. I prefer to leave my passport locked up at the hotel and carry a hard copy while out, with a picture on my phone as well.

Travel Insurance 

Do you really need travel insurance? The answer is undoubtedly YES. Unexpected travel costs and interruptions can add up quickly and your current insurance plans may not cover you. For as little as $5/day for a 10 day trip to CR, you can get comprehensive coverage for sickness/medical expenses, cancellation of flights, lost luggage, etc. AIG is a world leader in this field.

Sunset Puerto Viejo

This was my 4^th trip to CR and second visit to Puerto Viejo. My girlfriend is traveling with me, along with 2 of our friends, Dennis and Mary, who visited PV last year and started planning for this trip as soon as they got back. None of us had been to Panamá, and from PV this is an exciting and relatively easy hop, skip and ocean jump to the island of Colón.

San José Duty Free

Our flight from NYC left at 6AM, so we spent the previous night in the Chinatown section of Queens and enjoyed a great dinner at Joe’s Shanghai on the eve of our trip (a BYOB, so we went across the street and got some beer). The morning of our flight we got a taxi arranged by our hotel and arrived at the airport at 4AM. Dennis started his vacation early with a shot of tequila before we boarded! After a brief layover in Atlanta we arrived at San Jose’s Juan Santamaria Airport. I had packed all my belongings in a wheeled backpack and saved $30 baggage fee. The first thing I noticed was that the Immigration Arrival area had been renovated and the line was long and slow. We spent about an hour in line and during this time I received an email from Gecko Trail, our shuttle van service, advising me that our chartered van might be late as the driver was caught in traffic in the mountains due to an accident. As it turned out, it took quite a while to get out of the airport and our driver was waiting for us, holding a sign with my name. By the way, don’t pass up the Duty Free shop after you leave Immigration- the prices are as good as you’ll ever find at any Duty Free. We picked up 2 liters of Captain Morgan for a mere US$20, along with other alcoholic beverages to bring along with us. I did not exchange money at the airport, as I figured I'd do so along the way or when I got to Puerto Viejo, which worked out fine.

Let's Get Rolling!!

Hitting the Road

As I mentioned, we got a chartered van so our driver was basically our chauffeur. On the way out of town, we stopped at a convenience store to pick up some beverages. I made a Cuba Libre for myself and the party got under way!!

Dennis couldn't wait any longer

The trip to the Caribbean coast is long and rough, most of it being a 2 lane road and heavily congested, to the point that we came to a complete standstill many times. The good news is that it looks like the road is being expanded in many places, so hopefully the future is brighter. To get to PV it could take anywhere from 5-7 hours, but the van was air conditioned and had wi-fi, and the driver will stop when you’d like him to.

Lotus Garden Hotel, PV

We arrived in PV around 8PM and sat outside with the hotel manager, Jordan, an ex-pat who’s resided in PV for the past 15 years and runs the Lotus Garden, which has been around for a few years and is also, by the way, up for sale (if you’re interested I can provide more details!!)

Day 1, Cocles Beach 
We slept in until 9AM. Dennis and Mary already had breakfast at the hotel. Pat and I decided to head out and get something to eat along the way (I later discovered a new fruit, Manzana de Agua, or Water Apple, which was delicious). 

Cocles Beach, PV

We walked about 20 mins south to Cocles Beach, which I had visited a few years earlier with my daughter where she had taken a surfing lesson. The ocean was very choppy and dangerous, but the lifeguard indicated a section in the middle with a yellow flag where I enjoyed body surfing. For lunch, we headed over to the acclaimed restaurant  “Sol del Caribe”, but it was closed this day, so we strolled a little farther down the coast and found a great restaurant with tables in the sand along the ocean. We were the only ones there and it felt like we had stumbled onto a good spot. We enjoyed fresh fish sandwiches and salads, washing it all down with tropical rum drinks. This is what we came for and validated the long trek to get here. We later walked back to the hotel, changed, and headed into town. I went to the ATM machine (there’s only one, on the main street.). We then had dinner at Nema’s, which had fantastic drinks and decent food. I got a US$7 “Casado” with chicken.  Casado is the traditional plate of CR and consists of rice, beans, fried plantains and salad, along with an entrée. There are many great places to eat in PV and Nema’s is definitely one of them!

Day 2, Jaguar Rescue Center/Punta Uva Beach
  On my first trip to PV four years ago I didn’t visit the Jaguar Rescue Center and deeply regretted it afterwards. Our initial plan was to bike there (bike rentals run about US$7/day) but Pat was apprehensive about riding on the narrow roads with no shoulders, so together with Mary and Dennis, we flagged a taxi and then arranged for them to pick us up a few hours later at the center. NOTE: scheduled tours are offered twice a day: 9:30am and 11:30am, so plan accordingly. However, tours are divided up into small, manageable groups. The Center is not a zoo, but a rehabilitation center for exotic animals with the goal of returning them to their natural habitats, and by touring the center, the US$20 admission fee contributes to this goal. The tour is educational and enlightening. It’s a must-do and you’ll be glad you did it.
There were a few non-scripted moments when a wild pig attacked a caretaker who was holding a baby monkey, so anything could happen.

Punta Uva Beach, CR

Our taxi promptly picked us up and brought us to “Punta Uva” Beach. This is one of the nicest beaches along the Caribbean coast of CR and we basically had it all to ourselves. Aside from a small covered stand selling handmade jewelry and beer/soda, there was very little infrastructure. The ocean itself was calm and warm, and the scenery spectacular. Punta Uva is the beach of your dreams, but this one is real. It was clean, it was scenic and it was unspoiled. You can rent a kayak if you like and paddle around the shore or head down the river which flows to the ocean. If you decide to bike here, which is a good idea due to the beach being so secluded, it will take you about 45 mins.

Kayak at Punta Uva

Getting back to town was a little tricky: we walked about 10 mins to the main road and waited for a taxi/bus/tuk-tuk. One vehicle did pass by and picked up other people, so after I talked to the driver, he called a friend who came to pick us up (warning us NOT to take another ride while his friend was on his way). We were dropped off at the “Sol del Caribe”, where we enjoyed a delicious dinner (fresh Red Snapper, Curry Chicken, etc). The hosts were very friendly and came over to our table to chat with us.

Lunch "Sol del Caribe"

After, we walked back into town and enjoyed 2x1 Happy Hour at the “Lazy Mon”, a bar/restaurant/hostel/hangout featuring yummy tropical drinks, offbeat music and genial wait staff. And if the urge hits you, the water is a stone’s throw, or drunken stroll away, so you can cool off whenever you’d like.

 Day 3, Get-away Day. Next Stop Panamá!

Breakfast at Gustibus

We could have roughed it and taken a bus to the border, crossed over, caught a ride to the port city of Almirante and hopped on a water taxi, but we opted to stay with Gecko Trail and travel worry-free. We picked up coffee and croissants next door at the delightful Gustibus Bakery, then walked back to our hotel where our van punctually arrived at 8am. There was a Dutch Couple riding with us and we all enjoyed the hour trip to the border. At the border, a young man came up to us and helped with crossing. I originally thought he was with Gecko, but it turned out he wasn’t. He led us through each station until we got on the bus across the border to bring us to Almirante. I tipped him a few bucks and actually appreciated his help. A few tips about crossing the border:

  

-                            - You will need to pay a US$8 exit fee on the CR side at a  small stand

-             - Next you will need to get your exit stamp at a separate post across the street

-             - You’ll then walk a narrow bridge over a river to Panama- about 200 meters

-             - Next stop, Immigration, Panama style

-             - Finally, fill out paper work at a final station

Pat crossing into Panamá

Water Taxi to the Island

    This whole process will take about ½ - 1 hour, depending on the lines. There’s a bathroom on the CR side, which costs about US$.50 to use.

In Panamá we caught a bus chartered by Gecko to the port city Almirante, where we hopped on a boat to the town of Bocas del Toro. The entire trip from PV to Bocas will probably take 3-4 hours, so it’s not bad. Panamá was 1 hour ahead of CR (same as EDT in the US). The city of Almirante is a little run down, but safe from my viewpoint.

   When we arrived at Bocas, our hotel was a mere 20 meter walk from where we docked. We stayed at the Hotel Limbo, which I booked in advance and paid when we arrived. The price was right at US$61/night, breakfast included.

El Limbo Hotel

The rooms were comfortable and clean, with air conditioning. Our room did not have a safe, but Dennis and Mary’s did. They also had hot water, though our room was spotty with this. But overall, I think this hotel is worth it if you desire convenience and location. There is a decent restaurant a couple of doors down (El Pirata, which offers a US$5 executive lunch), and you can easily catch a water taxi to other islands and towns from here. There is also bus service right down the street to Starfish Beach.

Sunset on Starfish Beach

There are accommodations on the neighboring islands if your long for tranquility and seclusion, but for our first foray to Bocas, El Limbo was ideal.

We had a nice lunch at El Pirata (which doubles as a night club after hours), then decided to get out and explore. We chose Starfish Beach and after getting directions from the hotel, headed to the main plaza to catch the bus. Unfortunately, the next bus had broken down and was running real late (we should have taken a taxi but I thought we could save a few bucks with the bus). It took quite a while to get there and it was almost dark, so we just walked around, then took the last bus back. The bus costs US$2.50 and takes between ½ hr to one hr to get to Star Fish Beach, depending on the time of day. The taxi is $15 for up to 4 ppl.

El Pirata for food, drink and nightlife

As for Bocas, it was bigger and more bustling than I imagined, but had a typical Latin flavor to it and most of the businesses seemed to cater to locals- there are plenty of supermarkets and small restaurants, along with street stands selling food. There is also a lot of night life and I imagine the place is really hopping during the peak season and holidays.

Our hotel had a restaurant but it was temporarily closed; however we were able to buy food and beverages at supermarkets and enjoy them on the back deck overlooking the Caribbean, which was wonderful. They even supplied us with wine glasses!

 Day 4, Bastimentos Island and Red Frog Beach

Water Taxi driver Máximo

We had breakfast downstairs at the hotel, then discussed plans for the day. I had wanted to visit Red Frog Beach on Bastimentos Island and everyone was up for it. We asked at the info. center in front of the hotel where we could get the water taxi there and was pointed to a place a couple doors down from El Pirata. We went in and talked to a boat owner named Maximo. The price was US$7 per person each way, but we agreed to a price of US$56 total for all of us, where Maximo would take us to Red Frog Beach, then pick us up at 3pm and bring us to the town of Bastimentos, farther down the island, for lunch, then pick us up a couple hours later for the ride home.

Path to Paradise

So off we went!! It took about 20 minutes to arrive, but we weren’t there yet. You need to pay another $5 to cross over private land to get to the beach. The path is well-groomed and we encountered a crocodile in the swamp on the way over! This all added to the thrill of the journey and when we arrived, we knew we had reached a special place.

Red Frog Beach

Your first impression is that you are really detached from the rest of the world. Your 9-5 job could not be more distant as a sense of escape takes over. We surveyed the area, then decided to mosey over to the bar/restaurant next door where we paid $5/person to rent a beach chair (which included much needed umbrellas and tables). We bought cold beers and sodas to mix with the rum we brought. I also walked a little farther down the beach and found an old man who sold fresh coconuts for US$1 each, which are also a perfect match for my good friend Captain Morgan. This place had a decent menu including red snapper, but we had already decided to eat elsewhere.

Dennis living the life

My next move was very regretable: I decided to take on the waves and enjoy my favorite water sport: body surfing. As you can see from the picture, the waves got the best of me, lunging me through the air and slamming my head on the ocean floor.

Miscalculated wave strength

I ended up with a swollen eye and sore back, but it could have been much worse. The alcohol probably numbed the pain, but the shiner would last a few more days. I later walked down the beach with Pat to the end, where the ocean was much calmer and there was a nice overlook we went to and snapped some postcard photos. We then headed back up the beach where we met Mary and Dennis, then walked to the dock to meet Maximo. He took us to Bastimentos village where we ate at a restaurant situated on a dock over the water.

Restaurant in Bastimentos

We all ordered seafood and washed it down with cold Balboa beer, named after the conquistador and a little on the heavy side, which I prefer. We were going to walk around town after we ate but Maximo arrived early so we boarded his boat and skimmed over the water back to our hotel. At the hotel we enjoyed a drink on the deck as people dined and enjoyed the music and good vibes all around us. El Pirata was packed and the music was loud, but fortunately our room was on the quiet side of the hotel (Mary and Dennis were not so lucky). We retired to our room early.
Day 5, Starfish Beach, Take 2
To be honest, the breakfast at our hotel was mediocre at best. Mary is a dietician and enjoys good food while Pat is very particular about what she consumes.

Breakfast at El Limbo

I enjoy fresh tropical fruits, and though breakfast at the hotel included pineapple and watermelon, I was expecting a little more. The processed packaged cheese product kind of turned us off as well, so we looked around for a decent buffet but couldn’t find anything worthwhile.

Boca del Drago arrival

We ended up buying some yogurt and a few other products at the supermarket and went back to the hotel, where we asked our waiter for fruits and coffee. Dennis and I also had eggs and toast. We all decided to return to Starfish Beach, which turned out to be a very wise choice. We caught a bus at 10am at the plaza (the bus name is Boca del Drago and passes every 1/2 hour, latin time).

Postcard Beaches

You stay on the bus until the end of the line, then walk quite a ways if you want to get to Starfish Beach, but don’t be tempted to stop when you first get there. Keep going even farther (at the first few beach stands you will pay $5 to rent a beach chair, but the more you walk, the better it gets as chairs are free and the crowds are smaller, the water nicer!!). I can’t overestimate how wonderful this place is! The waters are calm as they lie between the island and the mainland. Starfish are actually meandering at your feet (DON’T TOUCH THEM!! THERE ARE ACTUALLY GOVERNMENT SOLDIERS PATROLLING THE BEACH TO PROTECT THE STARFISH).

Pat's first look at starfish

We ended up at the absolute last hut on the beach, where we enjoyed fresh red snapper, the best we had the entire trip! Pat’s fish was the largest and the price with all the fixings was US$20. Dennis and I enjoyed ours just as much, though we paid US$15 for a smaller portion. Mary devoured scrumptious shrimp tacos. Pat worked closely with the bartender on our drinks to ensure they were potent, so the Pineapples with Pina Coladas concoctions came drenched in rum (for only $3 each!!).

We washed it all down with more rum drinks, then somehow found our bearings and headed back to the bus stop. A bus was waiting for us, but what’s the rush?? We sat at a quiet restaurant and had one last beer, overlooking the sunset and taking in this beautiful piece of heaven, one last time. The bus ride back to town was pretty quick as there weren’t many people on board and the driver was obviously channeling his favorite Formula One driver. Back in town, we looked for fresh empanadas to munch on but couldn’t find any as it was a Sunday night and there weren’t many street vendors out.

Heading back to Bocas

So we went back to the hotel and watched the boats go by one last time on the back deck, then went up to our rooms around 9PM, having taken in another fulfilling and adventurous day.

 

Day 6, Return to Puerto Viejo

After breakfast at the hotel we boarded our water taxi (Torres Taxi) at noon and headed back. The lady at the reception for the water taxi had to confirm that there would be someone waiting for us at Almirante as she didn’t have confirmation (she didn’t speak much English so my Spanish came in handy again).

Last peak at El Limbo

Once everything was worked out, we hopped in and off we went. The trip back seemed a little quicker and we gained an hour with the time change to CR time. The same kid who assisted us into Panamá met us again for helping us into CR. I probably didn’t need his help but I trusted him now and tipped him a few more bucks, which he appreciated.

Pat with eye on our bag

We arrived back at Lotus Garden the middle of the afternoon (this worked out very well, as we had left a lot of our baggage at Lotus while we traveled to Panamá; otherwise we would have had to bring everything to Panamá, then back to CR, which included all our heavy clothing for the trip down here, along with dirty laundry, etc.). We changed and hit the boulevard. Mary suggested we have dinner at Monly’s, and she was right on target. This place, located across from Lazy Mon, had an incredible array of appetizers and seafood (the owner presented the menu and told us the restaurant has its own fishing boat, so the seafood is freshly caught).

Seafood at Monly's

We had an appetizer of King Fish and I got revenge with a shark burrito. But the best part were the drinks! Every bar and restaurant in PV has 2x1 Happy Hour, but the drinks here were beyond description. I had one Mojito (full of fresh mint) and one Guaro Sour (the national drink of Costa Rica, made from sugar cane, which reminded me a lot of Cachaça in Brasil). After 2 drinks I was feeling pretty good to say the least. Our next, and last stop for the night, was Lazy Mon, where we found Claudia from Barcelona, who we had met earlier in PV and who works at BananaAzul, the nicest resort in PV located on the outskirts of town.

Sunset from Lazy Mon

We had more drinks (Happy Hour of course), then strolled back to our hotel one last time, where we had a good night’s sleep after a full day.

Day 7, Off to San José 

We started our day at the bakery Gustibus next door and loaded up on carbs. Gecko picked us up promptly at 8AM and we were on our way. Once we got past the commercial port city of Puerto Limón traffic wasn’t too bad. We stopped for lunch at a decent place along the way and was making good time. However, when we got within ½ hour of our hotel the van broke down.

Our van let us down!

We ended up waiting about an hour for another van to pick us up, so we got in a little late. We finally arrived at the Mango Hotel, right across from the end of the airport. I was hoping to take a dip in the pool but it was getting chilly and windy. So we hung out for a while and waited for the restaurant to open, where we enjoyed a free cocktail, then salads and Italian food.

San José Airport

Most flights back to the US leave early in the morning, so you’ll need to spend the night in SJ the day before your flight. The Mango Hotel is super convenient and has free shuttle service (you would pay US$25 for a taxi if you stay in town). We left early in the morning but our time at the hotel was pleasurable. In the past you had to pay a departure fee at the airport but this has been done away with. Getting through the airport is quick and easy and there were people at the kiosk to help us check in. TIP: The duty free at the gates is also very good!! I bought Havana Club Rum and Malibu to bring back (I’m not sure if it’s legal to bring back anything manufactured in Cuba but I got through no problem so I guess I’m officially a rum runner).

Hotel Reviews

We stayed at 2 hotels in Costa Rica and one in Panamá. I always look for places that are centrally located, safe, clean and if possible, breakfast included. Cost, of course, is paramount factor for me. So here’s a little rundown: 

Lotus Garden: Mary and Dennis stayed here last year and had a good experience, so thought it would be wise to return. The manager is from the US and keeps the property well maintained, though the rooms definitely need a facelift.

The hotel is close to the action, which is convenient for going out and not having to take long hikes to and fro, but this has a down side in that, if your room is close to the road, it can be very loud (we heard traffic every morning at 6AM right outside our window). If you can get a room in the back, which seems to be the more expensive ones, you wouldn’t have this problem. The gardens are very beautiful and attract all kinds of local wildlife, but this also has a downside in that the pool gets used more by critters than human. The breakfast looked good, but wasn’t included in the price.

So I think depending on what you are looking for (price/location/comfort/cleanliness), this hotel may be a good choice or may be something you pass on. In any event, it is up for sale, so if you’d like to move to paradise on a permanent basis, this might be your ticket. I can provide you with more info if you’re interested.

Blue Conga
I stayed here a few years ago with my daughter to celebrate her 16^th birthday and this place is a gem.

Breakfast Blue Conga

It offers the best of all worlds: quiet, clean, roomy, nice pool, convenient location off the beaten path, and tropical breakfast included. Not surprisingly, it’s Trip Advisor’s Best Value for PV, so I would look into it if you’re interested in visiting CR and book early, as rooms fill up fast. BananaAzul, located on the outskirts of town, is also highly rated, and we also stumbled upon some nice digs south of town right on the ocean which may be worth a look.

El Limbo 

El Limbo provided us with the basics we sought: price, location and convenience. At $61/night for a double room, I figured we couldn’t go wrong and we didn’t. Knowing ahead of time that we would be spending a lot of time exploring the cluster of islands and beaches surrounding Bocas, we really just needed a low-cost, safe place, and El Limbo is located adjacent to Torres Taxi, which brought us from Almirante, as well as other water taxis next door.

El Limbo deck view

However, the city of Bocas is small enough that you can easily walk to any hotel/bar/restaurant, and even the local airport. Just make sure you get a room here on the opposite side of El Pirata, which can get pretty loud, especially on weekends.

Hotel Mango 

We stayed here the night before our flight home. Being located adjacent to the airport and not downtown saved us $25 on taxi fares alone (they offer a free shuttle service to the airport, which we took advantage of). The pool looked refreshing but we got in to town too late to take a dip. The restaurant was nice, offering Italian fare and a free happy hour drink.

Chilling in SJ on last night

The place was in a safe location, clean, and the owner was friendly, so our basic needs were met. I’ll use them again on my next trip.

Taxi Service 

It’s always nice to have a familiar face waiting for you when you arrive at a foreign airport, and whenever I’ve needed a ride in SJ I’ve contacted Vladimir. He’s prompt and courteous and will be waiting for you at the airport exit in San José upon your arrival. You can contact him at 506-8877-5967 (which is also his WhatsApp contact number).

What do you need to bring along? 

It was obviously logical to pack light, as we were bouncing around from subways to taxis, vans to water taxis, and just old-fashioned schlepping it. We also saved $30 each way on our plane flight by carrying our bags onboard. I take packing very seriously and put together a neat little youtube video which is loaded with tips for packing for overseas travel. Check it out here. Below are some of the essentials, all available on Amazon:

Mini Backpack
Low price of only $11.49!

This bag is perfect for daily outings: lightweight and water resistant, it folds up neatly into a small pouch, though it's big enough to store items such as your rain jacket, water bottles, etc.

Light Weight Rain Jacket
Just $13.00!

There's a good chance it'll rain at some point on your trip. You will need to be prepared unless you enjoy getting drenched. The jacket featured here is exactly what you need: light weight (7oz.), 100% waterproof with a hood, and it restuffs into the pocket.

 Samsonite Wheeled Travel Bag
Only $67.85!!

This travel bag was truly the best purchase I've made for my travels, and priced much lower than you'd find on Samsonite's website! As we all know, traveling by plane has become more complicated, with added charges for checked baggage. I was able to carry this bag into the plane cabin. It has straps to use as a backpack as well as wheels for easy transport. Everything I brought with me easily fit inside. The Samsonite brand assures me I made a wise purchase. This bag will pay you back many times over!!

                                            Here is a YouTube version of our trip:

Click here for Flikr pictures of my trip!